In a world today, the pursuit of beauty comes at a steep cost. From Lagos to Johannesburg, the desire for lighter skin has driven countless women into a dangerous addiction to skin-lightening products.
Globally, the skin lightening market was valued at $8.8 billion in 2022 and is projected to reach $11.8 billion by 2026, according to the National Library of Medicine. Data by WHO indicate that 77% of Nigerian women, 59% of Togolese women, and 35% of South African women reportedly use these products.
More than just cosmetic preference, these figures reflect deep-rooted social bias that equates fairness with desirability, wealth and status
Most skin-lightening creams often are composed of mercury, hydroquinone, or corticosteroids– potent chemicals not meant for prolonged, unsupervised use. Mercury particularly inhibits melanin production, lending the skin a fairer glow.
As a heavy metal, though, it can accumulate in the kidneys and liver, potentially causing organ failure over time.
“We’ve had patients as young as 28 years old showing early signs of nephrotoxicity, which is kidney damage,” explains a dermatologist at an Abuja-based specialist hospital, Tunde Owolabi. “The creams they use contain mercury levels that are 300 times the approved limit.”
While it’s sometimes used under medical supervision to treat conditions like melasma, high concentrations (above 2%) of hydroquinone have been linked to ochronosis (a bluish-black discolouration of the skin), liver inflammation, and an increased cancer risk.
A 2020 study in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that 53% of skin-lightening products sold in sub-Saharan Africa contained illegal levels of hydroquinone or mercury.
Meanwhile, prolonged use of corticosteroid-based products can disrupt the body’s glucose metabolism, leading to steroid-induced diabetes. Owolabi notes that, when applied over large areas, these potent steroids can be absorbed into the bloodstream, causing widespread harm.
The human cost of this industry is devastating. Chioma Anozie, a bank teller in Lagos, began using skin-lightening creams at age 20.
“Everyone around me was using something. The lighter you are, the more you’re noticed. It felt like I had no choice,” Anozie, now 32 and undergoing dialysis for Stage 2 kidney disease, recalls.
Her doctors linked one of the causes to years of mercury-laden cosmetics.
Fatou from Dakar, Senegal, shared her painful experience at a regional health conference in Abuja. “I was told by a friend that the cream would make me look like Beyoncé,” she said in wry humour.
“Now, I have scars on my face, and I can’t step out in the sun without feeling like I’m burning.” Her condition, known as photosensitivity, is caused by long-term steroid use. She’s now undergoing painful phototherapy sessions to repair her skin barrier.
A Crisis of Identity and Health
Beyond physical health, this crisis is deeply rooted in history and social constructs. Colonial legacies in Africa often portrayed white skin as superior, civilised, and elite. Today, the mindset persists, amplified by media and entertainment.
In the film industry, lighter-skinned actresses often land more prominent roles. On social media, influencers promote hashtags like #GlowUp or #MelaninTransformation, celebrating harmful bleaching practices.
“What’s tragic is that many of these women are never fully informed. They buy from unregulated vendors, often without labels, without knowing what they’re rubbing on their skin,” explains Ifeoma Eze, an endocrinologist in Abuja.
Several African governments have proposed bans on hydroquinone and mercury-based products. However, enforcement remains weak.
Despite repeated warnings from the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC) in Nigeria, skin-lightening creams remain readily accessible in markets, salons, and online stores.
Addressing the skin-lightening epidemic in Nigeria is an uphill battle–one that demands not only public outreach but also tighter regulation, medical experts note.
Overall, society must also prioritise cultural reorientation, promoting the reason why dark is beautiful.
The pursuit of lighter skin in Africa, particularly in Nigeria, Togo, and South Africa, has led to widespread use of harmful skin-lightening products, largely driven by societal biases equating fairness with desirability and status. The skin lightening market, valued at $8.8 billion in 2022, is expected to grow to $11.8 billion by 2026. These products often contain hazardous chemicals like mercury, hydroquinone, and corticosteroids, known to cause severe health issues such as kidney damage, liver inflammation, ochronosis, and steroid-induced diabetes. Despite health risks and regulatory warnings, these products remain prevalent due to weak enforcement and deep-rooted colonial legacies promoting lighter skin as superior.
Stories like those of Chioma Anozie, who suffers from kidney disease due to mercury-laden cosmetics, and Fatou from Senegal, afflicted by photosensitivity from long-term steroid use, underscore the human cost of this beauty standard. Media and entertainment further perpetuate the preference for lighter skin, while many women lack awareness of the dangers due to unregulated sales. Although some African governments have proposed bans on harmful ingredients, effective regulation and enforcement are lacking. Efforts must focus not only on stricter regulation and public education but also on cultural reorientation to value darker skin tones as beautiful.
